Teaching the Automatic Sit

This article assumes that you have a basic working knowledge of clicker training and you dog is conditioned to the clicker.

Have you ever wished your dog would simply sit down and wait while you talk to someone during a walk or wait to cross the street, instead of sniffing and dislocating your arm? Read on. This article covers teaching your dog to sit automatically in situations such as those.

Begin your training in a quiet area. Walk a few yards with your dog on leash, then halt.

After you stop, call the dog’s name to get his attention, then lure him into the sit position by holding a treat just above his head. When he sits, click and treat. It doesn’t matter if the dog isn’t in heel position, and you should avoid giving a “sit” command when you halt. You want to teach your dog to sit automatically when you come to a stop; in effect, your halt becomes the “command” to sit.

Because you are teaching good behavior, rather than precision heeling, exactly where the dog sits is immaterial provided he isn’t in your way.

After you reward the sit, walk forward a few more yards and halt again. Repeat the lure-and-reward sequence. Practice this exercise over and over again on walks. After a few sessions, your dog should be starting to anticipate your prompt to sit.

To “test” your dog for readiness to go on to the next step, come to a halt and leave your arms by your sides. Do not lure the dog. If necessary, say his name to catch his attention. Then simply wait and do nothing for up to 30 seconds. If the dog sits, click and give him a “jackpot” consisting of a huge number of treats. If he doesn’t, continue the lure-and-reward method for another day or so, then “test” him again.

When you have accomplished your goal of teaching the dog to sit without a lure when you stop, practice this for several days. You should simply walk forward, then halt and wait for the dog to sit. If he is very distracted, you can call his name to get his attention. Reward with a click and a treat each time he sits.

The next step is to start rewarding only the best sits. First, withhold your reward if you have to call the dog’s name to get his attention. Then, start withholding rewards for very slow sits. When the dog begins to sit more quickly, up the ante so that you only reinforce the best, fastest sits. When your dog doesn’t earn a reward, simply say “good dog” and walk forward. Once your dog is proficient at the quick, smooth sit, introduce a more realistic level of distraction, as follows.

Practice walking your dog up to a group of people and stopping to “chat.” These can be fellow members of a class, friends, of even neighborhood kids hired for the occasion. Walk towards the group, and halt a few feet away. It the dog sits, reward him with a click and a “jackpot.”

If he fails to sit, and seems confused or distracted, say his name to catch his attention. Use your lure only if you absolutely have to. Should your dog jump on a member of the group or strain at the leash trying to drag you towards them, correct him with a sharp tug on the lead. The try to catch his attention and offer him another opportunity to sit for a reward.

Repeat this exercise a number of times until the dog will sit quickly, without any prompting. Practice with different people in different areas to vary the situation for the dog.

Then, ask members of the group to talk to and entice the dog while you encourage him to remain sitting. Reward your dog frequently for remaining in the sit despite the sweet-talking. If he attempts to stand up and approach someone, restrain him with the leash and call his name to bring his attention back to you. If he sits back down, click and reward. Lure him back in to the sit if it is absolutely necessary. If your dog lunges forcefully at someone in the group or jumps up, correct with a sharp tug on the leash.

When the dog’s attention remains focused on you in this situation, increase the difficulty by having members of the group pet and handle the dog the way a stranger on the street would. Once you reach this stage, you can stop using staged groups and simply walk your dog in congested areas. Come to a halt in the midst of “real” groups of people and practice!

Remember that your dog should sit any time you stop. Practice stopping at street corners, driveways, the entrance to your house, etc.

How To Deal With A Nipping or Mouthing Problem?

In dealing with the problem of a nipping or mouthing dog/puppy, it is important to remember that it is a dog’s natural behaviour to nip. Hence it is unrealistic to expect such behaviour will be corrected within a few training sessions or totally eliminated overnight. However with consistency, patient and practice, such behaviour can be corrected over time.

Ways to curb nipping behaviour in a dog/puppy:

• Avoid rough games such as play-slapping, wrestling, tug-of-war, etc
• Avoid vigorous petting, especially around the face. Always pet the dog gently and keeps the hand slow.
• Avoid playing with the dog using your hands as he may treat your hands as his toys. Keep several toys and treats at hand for the dog to focus on.
• Give plenty of exercise, such as fetching games, hide-and-seek, etc to burn off the energy in him; especially before any petting or interaction as a tired dog or puppy is not likely to nip.

What to do when your dog/puppy nips you:

Method 1

• Freeze immediately.

• After freezing, say ‘Off’ or ‘No’ in a sharp tone but not to yell or shout.
• At this time, the dog will take his mouth away, back away and/or look at you. At this point, praise him gently and calmly.
• If he resumes his nipping, walk away from him.
• After several minutes have passed, approach and resume the activity with him as long as he does NOT nip again.

Remember: Never allow or continue any activity with a nipping dog/puppy no matter how small he is or whether the bite hurts.

Method 2

This method can be used when the dog does not stop his nipping when you freeze:

• Spray an ‘anti-chewing’ spray in the dog’s mouth once. The spray has a bitter taste and the dog will normally dislike such taste.
• Spray it on your hands, feet and clothes before interacting with the dog.

Method 3

• Put the dog on a leash (use a chain-link leash if he tends to bite the leash) or head collar before interacting with him.
• Say ‘No’ when he nips and gently tug the leash.
• Hold the dog’s head away from your body until the dog calms down.
• Slowly put our hands or feet back toward the dog’s mouth. NO fast movement.
• Praise him gently when he only sniffs or nuzzles as this is appropriate greeting gestures of a dog.

And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!

Understand Your Dog's Body Language

Although your dog cannot use "words", he is always communicating. Dogs use their bodies to express their emotions, to show affection and to identify rank.

Unlike humans, dogs don't hide their emotions so what you see is what he's really feeling.

Dogs communicate with their actions, movement of their eyes, ears, mouths, etc, body gestures, tail wagging and more. Know to tune into your dog's body language, you'll realize what he's talking about and what he needs. Of course, each dog, like each human, has his own personality traits. Over time, you'll no doubt come to learn these individual traits. But there are general moods and behaviors that you can expect from dogs.

Barking

Dogs bark for many reasons, such as when perceived intruders (humans, dogs, or other animals) approach its territory, for identification, when hearing an unfamiliar or unidentified noise, when seeing something that the dog doesn't expect to be there, or when playing. Barking also expresses different emotions for a dog, such as loneliness, fear, suspicion, stress, and pleasure. Play or excited barks are often short and sharp, such as when a dog is attempting to get a person or another dog to play.

Dogs generally try to avoid conflict; their vocalizations are part of what communicates to other dogs whether they mean harm or are in a playful mood.

The bark of a distressed or stressed dog is high pitched, atonal, and repetitive (and tends to get higher in pitch as the dog becomes more upset). For example, a dog left home alone and who has separation anxiety might bark in such a way.

Some research has suggested that dogs have separate barks for different animals, including dog, fox, deer, human and cat.

Growls

Growls can be used to threaten, to invite play, and to show dominance. Growling should be watched with special attention because it can indicate dominance or aggression. A soft, low-pitched growl often indicates aggression; the dog may feel threatened and may be provoked to attack. An intense growl, without showing any teeth, may often indicate a playful attitude. Always consider the context of a growl, and exercise caution.

Whines and Whimpers

Dogs whine and whimper to show that they are either in pain, or are afraid, or when excited, such as when greeting another dog, or in anticipation of a treat or an outing. Some dogs may use whining as a means of getting attention.

Howls

Howling provides long-range communication with other dogs or owners. Howling can be used to locate another pack member, to keep strangers away, or to call the pack for hunting. Sometimes dogs howl in response to high-pitched or loud noises such as alarms, sirens, music, or singing.

Confidence

Dogs that are confident and comfortable will stand erect. Their tails will be up and wagging in a sweep. The ears may be pricked up or relaxed, and they will look directly at you. The mouth will be partially open in what some call a smile.

Fear

Dogs that are fearful will lower their stance. The tail will usually be down, tucked between his legs, although some dogs actually wag their tails when they are unsure and evaluating a situation. The fearful dog will not look directly at you. When he turns his head away, he's thinking, 'hmmm� if I don't see you, you don't see me, and nothing bad is going to happen to me.�

Dogs that are fearful or unsure may use "calming signals" to reduce stress for themselves or others with whom they're interacting. Some of these signals include yawning, barking, intentionally becoming distracted, lip-licking, circling, sniffing the ground, or just sitting or lying down.

Aggression

Certain breeds are hard to read - their tails are naturally curled up, and their ears are always perked up. Some dogs don't ever give any indication that they are going to bite so watch the dog's muzzle. A muzzle will twitch before a bite.

Other signs of aggression include stiff legs and body with the tail straight out, ears "pinned" back close to the head, a lowered head with eyes fixed intently at you. The lips are sometimes drawn back in a snarl and a low growl is heard.

Many people mistakenly believe that hackled hair on a dog's back means they are aggressive. However, these are usually dogs who aren't at all confident - they're apprehensive so hackled hair makes them look bigger.

You win!

Play bows are an invitation to play. The rear end is up, the front part of his body is down, and the tail is wagging. Rolling over onto his back with his belly up is a classic sign of submission (or a request for a belly rub). A dog that raises a paw with a bent foreleg is showing submission.

And more �

Of course, dog language goes far beyond these few examples. Individual pets develop their own techniques for communicating with us when they want to eat, go out, or be left alone.

And there are the dogs that have either never learned or have mis-learned their own language. The company they keep is important. Dogs learn from other dogs, both the good and the bad. An isolated pup is like an isolated child, and the sad thing is he's not fluent in caninus. The puppy that gives all the calming signs in his repertoire and still has the stuffing knocked out of him by an unruly larger playmate may eventually resort to meeting newcomers with signs of aggression rather than calming ones.

It takes some observation to understand what your pet is "saying", but it's well worth the effort: the more you understand what your pet is trying to tell you, the better your relationship can be.


thank you Kum chee

..How To Deal With Your Dog's Shyness Problem..

Is your dog or puppy shy or afraid of strangers, certain situations or objects? Is your dog fear snapping or is your puppy fear biting?

Is Shyness a Problem or Not?

It is natural for some dogs to be shy of things that are new and unfamiliar. During development, a dog becomes socialized with familiar people, animals, objects and situations. But they will still tend to shy away from the unfamiliar. Shyness in itself is not a problem. It is only a problem if the dog's shyness inhibits your lifestyle or if the dog develops other problems related to shyness such as fear biting. Shy dogs often bolt when frightened, endangering themselves by running blindly into danger, such as traffic.

Unintentionally Training Your Dog or Puppy to be Shy

In a well meaning attempt to calm their dog's fears, many people end up actually reinforcing the dog's shy behavior.

In effect, the owner inadvertently trains the dog to be more fearful. Be careful not to reinforce your dog's fearfulness by offering reassurance. When our timid dog hides, barks defensively, whines, screams or snaps, our response is only natural. Our protective instincts cause us to reassure the dog by talking soothingly, petting or even picking up the dog for a hug. These actions flagrantly reward the dog for his fearful behavior.

It is best to just completely ignore your dog when he acts fearful. Let him learn by his own experience that there is nothing to be afraid of.

Save your praise and reassurance for times when your dog acts with confidence.

Shyness, Fear and Socialization

Many people try to rehabilitate their dog too quickly, forcing him to socialize with other dogs and people. This usually reinforces the dog's view that other dogs and people are frightening.

On the one hand, the dog needs to be socialized as quickly as possible, but on the other hand, he should not be forced into it. If you push your dog to do too much too soon, your dog will only become more fearful and may be forced into a situation where he feels he must defend himself.

Socializing a dog and helping him build his confidence is a time consuming task. Thrusting him into the arms of every visitor and dragging him out to socialize with many other dogs can be counter-productive.

Strangers should never be allowed to approach your dog to pet him. It should always be left to your dog to make the first contact. If your dog does not want to approach, that is OK. Just give him plenty of time to 'hide and peek' and eventually he will come out of hiding. It's up to you to provide ample opportunity for socialization, but it is up to the dog to proceed at his own pace. Don't verbally try to encourage him out of hiding. He will probably interpret your encouragement as praise for hiding. Don't try to force him to come out - this will only frighten him even more.

Fearful Snapping, Growling and Aggression

Shy or fearful dogs can react defensively when approached by unfamiliar people. They may try to keep strangers away by growling, snarling or snapping. These behaviors must not be ignored.

No dog should be allowed to get away with acting aggressively towards humans. The fact that your dog is shy is no excuse to condone growling or biting. You must instantly and effectively reprimand such behavior.

As soon as your dog stops acting aggressive, it is essential that you praise him. We do not want your dog to think that the presence of the stranger brings on the reprimand, but that his own obnoxious behavior causes you to get angry. If it is ever necessary for you to reprimand aggressive tendencies in your shy dog, you have probably been trying to push him along too quickly.

Avoid similar threatening situations until your dog has developed sufficient confidence to deal with them without resorting to aggression. Do not allow strangers to reprimand your fearful or shy dog.

And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!

*thanks kum chee*

Helping Your Dog to Overcome His Fear of Thunder, Fireworks and Other Loud Noises

It's unsettling when your dog has a fear of thunder, fireworks or other loud and sudden noises. Dogs often express their fear in destructive behavior, barking, cowering, and throwing various fits.

There are two mistakes we often make which only make the situation worse:

1. Never reprimand or punish the dog for being afraid - He will only become more frightened.

2. Never verbally or physically try to reassure or comfort the dog when he is acting fearful - If you stroke, cradle or hug your dog while saying things like, 'Oh poor baby, it's OK, there's nothing to be afraid of,' the dog doesn't understand your words, but he does understand that he is receiving a gentle, soothing reward by your actions and tone of voice. The dog usually concludes it is doing the right thing by acting nervous because you are so approving of it.

Sometimes simply stopping the unintentional reward stops the fearful behavior. But until the dog is over his fears, it is best to confine him to a place where he can't hurt himself or completely destroy your property. A crate is ideal. Accustom the dog to his special place so that he feels comfortable and secure there. Don't wait until the storm has arrived to introduce your dog to his 'safe haven.'

Below are two methods to help your dog to overcome his fear of thunder, fireworks and other loud noises:

Method 1 - Distraction Training And Fear

Brush up on some obedience training and teach your dog a few tricks and games. It is difficult for a dog to be afraid when he is enjoying his favorite game of fetch. It is difficult to think about the thunder storm outside when he is concentrating on a quick series of Come, Sit, Heel, Sit, Shake Hands, Down, Roll Over, etc. The idea is to distract the dog from the noise. You can then shower the dog with lots of affection and attention, but for obeying a simple command of sit-shake hands, instead of for acting fearful.

The key is patience and practice. Do not wait until the night before the thunder storm or the third of July (fear of fireworks) to begin teaching your dog a few tricks. Be sure he knows them well beforehand. He will probably have trouble concentrating at first, so the better he knows the games and tricks, the easier it will be for him to perform them under pressure.

Method 2 - Desensitization And Fear

Another method of helping your dog overcome his fear is to slowly and gradually accustom him to the noises that frighten him. This can be done by making a recording of the sounds and playing it back to the dog while he is enjoying everyday life and activities. Many music stores have soundtracks of fireworks, thunder storms and rain that you can purchase. Start by playing it back at such a low volume that you can barely hear it, but the dog's keen hearing will. The dog should show no signs of fear at this volume. Gradually, over the course of weeks or months, increase the volume by tiny increments. The volume is increased so slowly that the dog hardly notices the change. Eventually he will be used to hearing the sounds at full force. If at any time, your dog shows signs of fear, decrease the volume again and proceed a little more slowly. This procedure will work more quickly if you combine it with distraction training.

And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!

** "Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole!" ~ Roger Caras **

*thank you Kum Chee

The Right Leash and Collar for My Dog

Let’s talk about choosing the proper leash and collar for your dog. I want to start off by saying that I don’t recommend the use of choke collars – I’ll tell you why in a moment. It’s not a pretty story, so if you have a weak stomach you might want to skip the next paragraph or two.

There are a broad variety of collars on the market, from flat nylon to braided leather to rhinestone-studded glam collars – for the most part it’s a matter of personal preference. We’ll take a look at some of the more popular styles, but first – why I don’t recommend choke chains.

I have a friend who is a vet, who of course, given the nature of his business, sees abused and neglected animals come through his practice on a regular basis. I happened to be in his office one day when an animal control officer brought in a pit bull that had been staked out in someone’s yard for months as a guard dog – never socialized, never brought into the house, just staked out 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. He had been restrained by a choke chain that had been hooked to a metal chain on a stake. As he had grown, the choke chain had become embedded in this dog’s neck, to the point where it had to be surgically removed. It was heart-breaking.

An extreme case? Absolutely. But I’ve also seen dogs that have been tied out in other ways using choke chains, and died of strangulation because the chain gets twisted or caught in some way and the dog can’t get loose. I know choke chains are intended to be used as training collars, but too many people use them as everyday collars, and untold dogs are maimed and injured or killed every year by owners who do this. There are too many training alternatives out there, so please, don’t use a choke collar.

A flat buckle collar, either nylon or leather, is your best bet for everyday use. It should fit snugly, but leave room enough for you to slide two fingers between the collar and your dog’s neck. Any looser than that, and it may slide off over your dog’s head. Any tighter and it may cause chafing and discomfort.

The choice of nylon or leather is simply a matter of personal preference – nylon comes in a variety of bright colors, and is a good choice for dogs that spend a lot of time in the water (or mud!) Leather is durable and will absorb oils from your dog’s coat, making it more flexible over time.

The width of the collar should be appropriate to your dog’s size. For example, a wide, heavy or thick collar just won’t work on a Chihuahua, in fact, it would look ridiculous. By the same token, if you have a Rottweiler, a diamond- or rhine-stone-studded poodle collar is going to look pretty silly. And don’t forget an identification tag – if your dog is lost or stolen, this is a quick way for authorities to notify you when your pet is located.

Another terrific solution is a harness – a device that goes around the neck and ribcage, thus eliminating the possibility of choking. Harnesses are an excellent resolution to the problem of having a large dog that hasn’t been well-trained and pulls or lunges when out for a walk. It’s a great way to restrain the pulling without getting in that choking “tug of war” that you sometimes see. Harnesses are also good for small dogs, which can have serious problems with collars pressing on their small and fragile airways.

Now for the proper leash. As with collars, you have a choice of flat nylon or leather (or braided leather is also available), and as with collars, it’s largely a matter of personal preference.

I use a 6 foot nylon leash for training my dog. I find it’s the perfect length for walking, heeling and virtually all of my training sessions.

Many dog owners prefer a retractable leash. These are nylon leashes that are encased in a plastic casing, and vary in length up to about 25 feet or so. The best models of this type have a one-button “braking” system that stops your dog from going beyond a set distance, as well as a spring mechanism that allows you to adjust just how far you want to extend the lead.

Retractable leashes are a good idea if you walk your dog in a variety of settings: you can “reel” him in if you’re on city sidewalks or in situations where there are a lot of people or other dogs around, then you can expand the distance between you when you get to the park or an open space.

Bottom line – comfort and safety come first when making your choice – fashion should be a distant second!

When Should I Start Training My Puppy?

Many people ask me this question.

Here's the bottom line:

If you have a puppy, you must start training early, but do it gently. Your puppy has to have confidence in you before he can begin learning. Remember that puppies are like children - they have growing bodies, short attention spans, and will only learn things when the conditions are right and when they understand what it is you're trying to teach them.

The earlier you start training dogs, the better. More specifically, it's best if you start “socialization” from 8 weeks, simple commands like “come” and “sit” from 12 weeks, and more intensive training at 5 to 6 months.

Here's some more on this topic:

When Should I Start Training My Puppy?

Simply put, the sooner you begin training your puppy the better – for both of you. But you have to understand the stages a puppy goes through as he matures so you can form some realistic expectations of his behavior and learning ability. (Click here to see my article on the “7 Stages of Puppy Development for additional in-depth information on this subject.)

While some early training can be started as soon as you bring your puppy home, the optimum time to begin obedience training is somewhere around 9 to 12 weeks of age. Keep in mind that training can cover a broad range of topics – I’m not suggesting that you begin training your puppy at 8 weeks of age for agility competitions! Your training should start off with the basics – teaching him “No!” and beginning house-training.

Socialization skills are next – experts tell us the best window for your puppy to learn socialization skills is between 3 and 16 weeks – that’s the best time to insure that your puppy grows into a well-adjusted adult. And remember, socialization isn’t about teaching him the right fork to use at the dinner table – it’s about giving your dog the self-assurance to deal correctly with any social environment he finds himself in is one of the most valuable and lasting lessons you can teach him.

A well-socialized dog will interact well with all types of people and situations, even those he has never been in before. With appropriate social skills, your dog will show little or no fear of most objects, people or other animals, and even if startled, will recover quickly and won’t panic.

Bottom line, a well-adjusted dog is one that is comfortable in a variety of situations and surroundings. He may be excited in a new setting, but not fearful. The key here is to create positive experiences as you expose your dog to more and more new situations.

Even training your puppy for 5 – 10 minutes per day as soon as you bring him home will make a big difference in the social skills and adaptability of your puppy. Keep in mind that puppies have very short attention spans, so keep your lessons short and fun. How short an attention span? That depends on the age of the puppy, his breed and how mature your individual puppy is – but a good rule of thumb is to keep the training sessions within that 5 -10 minute range.

Depending on your puppy’s age and maturity level, sometime between 3 and 6 months of age you should be moving the training into the area of the basic commands such as Sit, Heel, Down, etc. It’s important you have realistic expectations about your dog’s capabilities at this point – I don’t expect a puppy to be responding to the basic commands with any degree of regularity until they’ve reached 6 months of age.

Puppy training (well, all dog training for that matter) has three main components - known as “PCP”. No, I’m not talking about drugging your dog! (Shame on you for even thinking that!) PCP (in this case) stands for the three things you need to keep in mind day in and day out when you’re training your dog:

1. Patience

2. Consistency

3. Practice

Patience is the key to any training program with your puppy. The level of patience you display while training your dog will have a direct impact on whether you have a happy, well-trained dog, or a miserable, misbehaving one.

You’re the adult here, remember? You’re the trainer, the leader of your pack, and the one doing the teaching. You know that your puppy needs short and positive training sessions. You know you can’t teach him everything in one

session, or even in a week of sessions. So patience is the key. If you find yourself getting frustrated when training your puppy, end the session on a positive note, and stop the training. Don’t lose your temper and take it out on your dog. It’s not his fault you’re getting annoyed – ok, well, maybe it is, but it’s up to you to maintain control and restart the training on another day.

Consistency is the second most important component of training. I’ve already talked about how important it is for everyone in the family to give your dog the same commands and allow the same behaviors. I can’t stress this point enough. If your family is all on the same page in terms of training, your puppy will be trained more quickly and thoroughly than you can imagine.

Everyone in the household needs to use the same commands. That way, when someone says “Sit” to your dog, he knows it means “Sit.” Not “Lie Down,” not “Ok, go eat your food now,” not “It’s ok to chase the cat.” Sit means Sit. Down means Down.

And it’s equally important to keep the behaviors consistent. You can’t have one family member letting your dog get on the couch and another trying to discipline him and telling him “No!” for the same behavior. It will only confuse him, with the end result that he won’t learn which behavior is right. So he’ll either try to do both, or neither. And either one of those actions will simply get him in trouble with whatever family member happens to be present at the time.

Practice makes perfect. I really hate to use that old adage,

but it’s true! Repetition is the way to teach your dog a lesson – any lesson. Repeating the lesson over and over again will engrain it so deeply in your dog’s memory it’s likely he’ll never forget it, and that’s what you want. You want his reaction to your commands to become second nature, obeyed almost instinctively and certainly followed immediately – it literally could be the difference between life and death for your dog.

Any successful training program must include some sort of discipline. Having said that let me say this: don’t ever hit your puppy. Let me repeat that so there’s no mistake. Don’t ever hit your puppy!

In order to apply discipline for an inappropriate act, you must

1. Catch your puppy in the act of misbehaving, or

2. Take steps to avoid the misbehavior in the first place.

If you walk into the living room and find your puppy squatting to piddle on the carpet, you should tell him “No!” in a loud and sharp tone of voice, then walk over, pick him up and take him outside. (Or leash him up and take him outside.) Either way, your puppy can tell he’s done something you don’t want him to do. There is absolutely no need to hit your puppy, just because he’s doing what comes naturally to him.

And, truth be told, if you had been paying attention to your

puppy, you would have recognized the signals he was using to tell you he needed to go outside. So the fault for this particular situation needs to be laid at your door, not your puppy’s. You could have avoided the situation in the first place by being more attuned to your puppy’s needs.

So, start early, be consistent, be patient, practice – and before you know it, you’ll have a dog that’s a joy to have around!

All About Five (5) Tips for Your American Pit Bull Terrier

Is your puppy or dog going potty (sorry I couldn't think of a better term there) all over your house? Are you waking up to poo and pee spots in front of your bed room door?

House training a new puppy can be easy or it can the most frustrating thing a person has every experienced.

This article will share with you five tips to make potty training your American Pit Bull Terrier quickly and without all the stress that normally comes with this over complicated process.

Keep reading to find out how to make this process a lot easier ...

TIP #1: Watch for the Potty Sign. Recognizing that puppy needs to potty is the first thing you should do. One of the easiest signs to spot is the sniffing. Excessive sniffing of the ground is one way to tell that your puppy is thinking about going potty on your nice rug or carpet. Pick the pup up and set it outside.

TIP #2: Be Prepared. Be prepared to clean up some accidents and don't freak out about it. One thing that always made me laugh was how people reacted when they're new puppy went in the house. They acted surprised, like it was a shocker the little thing used the bathroom. So be prepared to clean up some mistakes and remember, the little darling is just doing what comes natural it's your job to teach it were it's okay to go.

TIP #3: Take it Outside. When you notice the dog is thinking about going to the bathroom pick it up and take it outside. I would recommend taking it to the same spot every time. This way clean up is easier because you know it will be right there and not all over the yard. If an accident occurs be calm, carpet can be cleaned, simply pick up the dog place it outside in it's potty area and leave it there (you should be with it) for a few minutes.

TIP #4: Never Correct. This is one many of you may not agree with, but here me out. You don't have to yell at the dog, spank it, and for God's sake don't rub it's nose in the stuff. That's just down right rude. Calmly pick the dog up, set it outside, and proceed to clean up the mess. Bring the puppy back in the house and go on with your life. Correction is a set back in this case because once you scare the puppy it will start to hide and do it's thing. Which makes the process longer and more difficult. No harsh corrections means the puppy will have it's mind at ease and will be able to learn what you want it to do. Which is go outside to potty.

TIP #5: Be Consistent. I know in this busy world it's hard to be there all the time to get the little darling outside to use the bathroom. Consistency is key here, the more times the dog is let out to use the bathroom when it needs to go the less time it will take to learn that's the right thing to do.

A few more extra tips: take the dog out 10-20 minutes after eating and drinking, before bed time, and right when you wake up in the morning and when you get home from work.

House training isn't that hard if you devote the time it takes to get it done right. Respect the puppy and be consistent. In as little as one week you can have a house trained dog.

Good Luck!

5 ways to stop excessive barking

If you have a Pit Bull who barks non-stop here's five tips to help you teach them to quiet down.

Barking is a normal behavior. However, excessive barking is simply annoying.

Give them plenty of exercise:

There is a saying in the world of Pit Bulls, "A tired Pit Bull is a good Pit Bull."

If you find yourself hearing barking at all hours of the night you might want to look at how much exercise your dog is getting. They could be bored and barking is a way of letting go of some of that stress. Give them plenty of exercise every single day.

Acknowledge them: Walk over and give them a bit of praise.

Pit Bulls are attention nuts which can lead to barking to get your attention. Walk over and give them a very small amount of praise and let them know you heard them. I have found this to work for me personally with my dog Honey.

Make Your Own Doggy Rattle: Rattles are to dogs as fingernails on blackboards are to people.
Take a soda can or bottle and put some coins or rocks inside. When your dog starts barking shake your rattle. This will cause them to focus on you and be quiet long enough for you to call them to you or tell them to quiet down.

When You Speak, Speak in a Normal Tone and Don't Scold them

Squirt Bottle Surprise: When your dog starts barking let them know you would like them to stop by telling them "enough." In a firm but not scolding voice. After you do this give them a shot with a squirt bottle. You won't need to do this to many times because they will eventually put the word enough together with the squirt. Once they get squirted a few times the word will be enough to stop them from barking.

Ignore them:
One of the reasons for excessive barking is getting your attention.If they don't listen to you after you tell them to quit walk away.This works for dogs seeking attention. They will seek you out and stop the barking by seeing where you are going.

Mail Man = Good Stuff: Does your dog flip out when people come over?
Ask them to bring a treat and give it to your dog. Your dog will start to see them as friends and not threats. Which will help curb or stop your dog from going nuts when they come over.

Note: If you want a guard dog get a Poodle. :o)

Summary

One of the mistakes people make when they are training their dogs it they don't know when to move on to something new.

Usually a week or two is long enough to know if the training tip is going to work or not. If you find yourself not getting any results after a week or two move on to the next tip..

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

Are you ready to be shocked?

Puppies go through 7 distinct developmental stages in their first 7 months of life. And you need to know these stages to better understand your puppy's behavior as he grows from stage to stage.

Here's what you need to know:

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development In order to understand why your puppy doesn’t listen to you sometimes, you need to understand all the stages of development puppies go through as they mature. They’re kind of like kids – you wouldn’t expect the same behavior out of a two-year-old that you would out of a teenager, would you? Of course not! So why do you expect your eight-week-old puppy to react the same way your 3-year-old dog does? Let’s take a look at the different stages, but before we do, keep in mind that these stages are generalizations – each dog is an individual. I’ve seen six-month-old dogs act more mature than eighteen-month-olds. Socialization and training time you’ve spent with your dog can make an enormous difference in accelerating, or slowing down, your dog’s individual development. Stage 1: The Transitional Stage 2-3 Weeks The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to three weeks, and it’s during this time that your puppy’s eyes will open, and he’ll slowly start to respond to light and movement and sounds around him. He’ll become a little more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever home is.) He’ll start to recognize mom and his littermates, and any objects you might place in the box. Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage 3-4 Weeks The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory development during this time. Fully alert to his environment, he’ll begin to recognize you and other family members. It’s best to avoid loud noises or sudden changes during this period – negative events can have a serious impact on his personality and development right now. Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so it’s essential that they stay with mom and littermates. Stage 3: The Overlap Stage 4-7 Weeks The Overlap stage lasts about 3-4 weeks to about 7 weeks. It’s called the overlap period because it overlaps with the Almost Ready period. From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social development period of his life – he learns social interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and learns bite inhibition. He’ll also learn discipline at this point – Mom will begin weaning the pups around this time, and will start teaching them basic manners, including accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th week – transition gradually as Mom weans them. Continue handling the pups daily, but don’t separate them from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10 minutes per day. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and biting and have a more difficult time with socialization and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little longer - for optimum social development. In terms of socialization, this is the prime time for your puppy to learn basic social skills. Experts say that the best time in a puppy’s life to learn social skills is between 3 and 16 weeks of age – that’s the window of opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted dog. It’s extremely important to leave your puppy with Mom and his littermates during this period. Don’t discipline for play fighting, housebreaking mistakes or mouthing – that’s all normal behavior for a puppy at this stage. Stage 4: The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage 8 Weeks to 3 Months The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage lasts from about 8 weeks to 3 months, and is characterized by rapid learning as well as a “fearful period” that usually pops up at around 8 to 10 weeks. Not all dogs experience this, but most do, and they’ll appear terrified over things that they took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud voices or traumatic events. At this time your puppy’s bladder and bowels are starting to come under much better control, and he’s capable of sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come, sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. It’s important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at this time, as he’ll continue to learn behaviors and manners that will affect him in later years. Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage 3 Months to 4 Months The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it’s during this time your puppy is most like a toddler. He’ll be a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands he’s only recently learned – just like a child does when they’re trying to exert their new-found independence. As in “I don’t have to listen to you!” Firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training is what’s required here. He might start biting you – play biting or even a real attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp “No!” or “No bite!” command, followed by several minutes of ignoring him, should take care of this problem. Continue to play with him and handle him on a daily basis, but don’t play games like tug of war or wrestling with him. He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominance – especially if he wins. And wrestling is another game that can rapidly get out of hand. As your puppy’s strength grows, he’s going to want to play-fight to see who’s stronger – even if you win, the message your puppy receives is that it’s ok to fight with you. And that’s not ok! Stage 6: The Brat Stage 4-6 Months The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months, and it’s during this time your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and willfulness. You may see a decline in his urge to please you – expect to see more “testing the limits” type of behaviors. He’ll be going through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period. He may try to assert his new “dominance” over other family members, especially children. Continue his training in obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you’re in a confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog’s response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result – so don’t take the chance. He’ll now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven’t already, you should have him neutered during this time. (Or spayed if you have a female.) Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage 6-18 Months The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18 months, and is usually a great time in your dog’s life - he’s young, he’s exuberant, he’s full of beans – and yet he’s learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog. Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time – just because he’s approaching his full growth and may look like an adult, he’s not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training, if that’s something both of you are interested in. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animals – allow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs. Congratulations! You’ve raised your puppy through the 7 stages of childhood, er, I mean puppyhood, and now you have a grown-up, adult dog! Almost feels like you’ve raised a kid, doesn’t it?

Puppy Testing Tips

TEMPERAMENT TESTING
A Common Sense Approach

Puppy Testing

Some decades ago a scientist named Clarence Pfaffenberger searched for ways to better predict which pups would succeed at service work (guide dogs, police dogs) and breeders searched for ways to better match up puppies with buyers. Several temperament tests were put forth as tools for evaluating litters and ultimately predicting how individual pups would develop.

Some people think that Pfaffenberger's test was used by Guide Dogs for the Blind to determine temperament, but in reality, Guide Dogs has never used puppy tests for the simple reason they have not found them to give an accurate prediction.

The fact is, testing a litter of pups with any regularity will give mixed results. A pup that tests "quiet" one day may be a "hellion" the next depending on many factors.

Puppy temperament tests are more accurate the older the pups are. Tests done at 7 or 8 weeks are not nearly as liable to represent the pups ultimate temperament as those done at 12 or 14 weeks. Even tests done at those older ages are not necessarily reflective of the animal's adult behavior. Adult behavior is heavily influenced by drives and hormones not present in a pup.

Can an experienced breeder tell anything useful about a litter of pups? Absolutely. After having watched a litter grow, some pups will stand out as being consistently more dominant or more shy. But understand - even this can change. It is my opinion that pups which display severe temperament faults at an early age are suspect; rarely do they get "better". It is important to understand that this means pups which show consistently irregular temperament - not an occasional "bad moment".

Some things are more often than not able to be determined by 12 weeks of age. Severe dog aggression can sometimes be determined. This is tricky, however, as there are two main types of dog aggression. One is based on a dog being "gamey" and this animal generally will fight quietly (in fact you have to look close to see if they are fighting or playing). The other is based on a dog being "defensive" and this animal is loud - almost hysterical - when fighting. Besides that, the most dog aggressive dog I ever owned was a very passive pup until 14 months of age. This is not unusual in American pit bulls.

What to look for in a pup:

No matter the age, no matter if it be a shelter or breeder, there are some things to look for - and some things to avoid - in a pup.

CHILD TEST: If possible watch the pups with a young child. Pups that activity seek out contact with a child are a much better choice than a pup who avoids contact with little ones. Watch the pup's expression; is it "soft" and submissive or does the pup freeze and stare straight ahead when picked up and handled? A hallmark of our breed is a soft, submissive temperament with children. This is genetic and shows up in those well bred dogs who haven't had prior exposure to children.

SIT STILL TEST: Just sit and watch the pup(s). Don't call them, ignore them. Which pups keep coming to check in with you? Which ignore you back and go about their own business? I like a pup who seeks out the human and tries to engage them.

FOLLOW TEST: Get up and walk away. Don't call the pups. Who follows you? Who watches you leave with indifference? I like a pup who shows interest in you - in following you.

PUSH TEST: If you are looking for an outgoing pup, one with perhaps less of submissive temperament than others, try pushing a pup away (playfully) with your hand or foot. Watch the response. Does the pup act submissive and leave after just one or two pushes? Doe the pup rush back, excited by the opposition and willing to "wrassle" with you? This will give you a decent indication of how "soft" this pup is - at least at this time frame.

ALARM BARKING TEST: I don't care for bulldogs that are alarm barkers. I care even less for pups which alarm bark. When the pups are relaxed, have someone knock on a wall or door. Watch their reactions - which jump up, tail wagging, to investigate. Watch which ones alarm bark, indicating uneasiness.

GRIPPING TEST: If you are getting an American pit bull, you should strive to get one (in my opinion) with breed traits and characteristics. If not - why get one? One defining characteristic of the bulldog is the ability and desire to grip. Wave a soft cloth, sock or piece of jute over the pups; which pup chases and grips? Which pup holds with a quiet, confident grip when the pressure is steady, and growls and shakes when the cloth is shaken? I never cease to be amazed at persons emailing me with concerns because their pit bull pup grabs at their pants legs or gloves... I'd be worried if it didn't! If you don't want a gripping breed, don't get a bulldog.

Where To Get A Dog

Adopters and buyers of dogs should be able to trust those adopting or selling animals to have the welfare of the breed, the dog, the adopter/buyers and the community in mind when they evaluate an animal. In reality, an adopter/buyer must do their own assessment, especially where children are concerned. You don't know what motivates a rescuer or seller - is it money? Is it a desire to "save every dog" they get their hands on? Be wary of "no kill" rescues or breeders who indicate they don't believe in culling (euthanizing) animals with substandard temperament. Both are highly motivated to "move" their stock - and it can be at the risk of you or your family's danger.

If you chose a rescue organization or shelter to chose your next dog, please pick one with personnel who are bull breed savvy. If a shelter does not have an experienced owner of American pit bulls to council you, consider going to a local rescue. You best bet is a single breed rescue; all-breed rescues are apt to be run by persons with limited experience in any one particular breed. I've seen everything from cat-ladies to chihuahua rescuers trying to place pit bulls - not always a great situation. Well meaning they most often are, but able to mentor you or objectively judge the temperament of the dog they most often are not.

A breeder can be just as big a gamble. Novice (or unethical) breeders just want you to make a sale. Only an ethical breeder will be honest with you about the dogs in their breeding program, mention pros and cons of the animals. Only ethical breeders will cull unsatisfactory animals instead of handing them out into an unsuspecting public.

An important point about breeders: buying or adopting a puppy is a crap shoot - you have no idea how that pup will mature. However, a reputable breeder will be able to show you several of the pup's relatives, allowing you to judge for yourself how friendly and stable their temperaments are. Even with puppies, the typical American pit bull bitch will not growl at strangers. Most will welcome strangers into the whelping box after the first few days. If the mother of pup you are looking at growls, snarls or has to be locked away - run, don't walk away from the pups... She is showing a fearful/defensive attitude not normal for a well bred bull bitch. The same goes for the sire of the litter.

Testing The Adult Dog

A woman named Sue Sternberg can be credited with getting shelter workers to really start thinking about temperament testing. I have been to her workshop and while I disagree with the majority of her methods and opinions I give her credit for being strong minded enough to bring the subject up. No person on earth could ever come up with a test that everyone would agree on - and this is obvious when you realise that Ms. Sternberg has even recieved death threats from those unhappy with her methods.

The problem with temperament testing is twofold: first it assumes that each evaluator is able to be rational in their assessment. This is sadly not so. People bring "baggage" to their ability to assess temperament, be it an unwillingness to assign a dog to death or a fear or misunderstanding of certain types of dog. One person may overlook a poorly tempered Border collie - if that is a breed they care for - while being overly hard on boxers - a breed they dislike.

After twenty years in animal control, and working with thousands of animal control and humane workers while doing seminars and workshops, I find that most evaluators are well intentioned yet ultimately prejudiced by one of the following:

• A desire to "excuse" dangerous behavior
• A fear of certain dogs or canine behaviors
• Lack of ability to "read" canine language
• Reluctance to "play God"

With this in mind, my advice to those looking for an honest evaluation of an adult dog is to find someone with years of knowledge of the breed. I suggest a breeder or a rescuer who has at least five years experience with the breed. I would only consider someone who has, in the course of their dealings with the breed proven that they are willing to euthanize animals for poor temperament or ill health/soundness. Someone who says they have "never had to euthanize a dog" will be a poor choice.



source : workingpitbull.com

Basic Care of Your Pit Bull

HOW DO I CARE FOR MY PIT BULL?

Whether you have one dog or twenty, caring for your dog(s) can be easy and even enjoyable if you follow a routine. This point of this site is to help you care for your friend in an inexpensive yet totally effective manner - based on easy scheduling.

I maintain about a dozen dogs, and providing the best care I can requires a significant outlay of my funds. I hope to pass on some of the money saving tips I have learned for you. I know you want to provide the very best care to your dogs too.

ONCE A DAY

Once a DAY you need to:

• Dump out and clean your dog's water bowl/bucket. This is for real. Don't just top it off. Dogs often urinate (or other dogs will do it) in their water buckets, and having done so, won't drink from it. You may think they will learn the lesson not to - but they don't. Especially if you have dogs kenneled next to each other, with water buckets clipped to the wire, they are sure to be urinated in! In very hot climates, you may need to top off more than once a day. I have seen dogs get dangerously thirsty because owners overlooked a dead mouse rotting in the water bucket. Little animals get thirsty and try and drink out of buckets - falling in and drowning. DUMP IT AND FILL IT EVERY DAY!
• Feed your adult dog once a day - in the evening. Many people want to feed their dogs twice or even three times a day and this is certainly their choice and won't harm the dog. However, it is very important to notice if a dog is "off their food". Very important! A dog can die within hours of bloat and days from an obstruction caused by swallowing foreign objects. Around here, if a dog won't eat a meal it is a serious event - generally I drive straight to the vet. When you train dogs, as I do, it is better to have them keen then full and groggy during the day. NEVER FREE FEED YOUR DOG. It attracts rodents and birds outside and does not allow you to monitor your dog close enough.
• Feed pups appropriately for their age: 8 weeks to 12 weeks three times a day, 13 weeks to 8 months twice a day.
• Medicate. I do all once a day medications with the evening meal. This is why I feed once a day - I know my dogs will eat their meal quickly and completely. There are few medications which can't be given with food; the best way to give pills is to crush them between two spoons and mix in the food. Capsules can be opened and the powder sprinkled in the food. Be sure to put a little warm water over the food. For ear ointments or other medications applied to the body, dinner time is still a great time to apply them, while the dog is busy eating.

Take a moment to tell them you love them. Seriously. In this busy, hurry-up world where we stare at computers, TVs, and are pulled in all directions, take a minute or two to "love up" that dog. Look them in the eye, pet them, tell them they are loved and appreciated


ONCE A WEEK

Once a WEEK you need to:

• Scrub out that water bowl/bucket or run it through the dishwasher. I use a stiff brush and a dollop of bleach for cleaning outside buckets, I run the inside water bowl through the dishwasher.

Clean fabric bedding in dog houses or in the home. Remember not to use fabric bedding if your dog is tethered; uless you can use a solid bed, and the dog won't eat it. Generally, blankets will become tangled in a tether.


ONCE A MONTH

Once a MONTH you need to:

• Flea/worm/heartworm treatment. If you can afford a product like Revolution, that would be the best. Pick a day that you use each month - I use the first. If you can't afford Revolution, here is an inexpensive option that works. Purchase Ivomec (Ivermetin) injectible for cattle and swine 1% solution. The preventative dose is basically 1/10th of 1cc per 10 lbs of dog's body weight. To be honest, I round up, and give all dogs over 60 pounds 1cc once a month. Young dogs and small dogs I dose just 2/10ths over. This is very simple. Just stick a 1cc syringe in the bottle, pull out the dose and spray it on the dog's food. Ivomec will keep demodex, ear mites, heartworm and long worms at bay.
• Clip nails. Even if you think your dog keeps his nails worn down, check them once a month. Check for broken nails, nail bed infection, sores between pads.
• Check/clean ears. Sore, stinky infected ears can sneak up on you with these stoic dogs. When clipping their nails just look inside the ears for redness and take a quick sniff - clean ears don't stink.

EVERY SIX MONTHS

Every SIX MONTHS you need to:

• Take all bedding out of outside dog houses. Spray them out with a hose, dry well and spray with a bug killer. Replace with new bedding such as straw, grass hay or wood chips.
• Check all tethers or kennels. Check fence lines. Replace worn parts.
• Bath your dog and express anal glands. Most dogs tolerate liquid dish soap or human shampoo just fine. Bathing a dog is a great way to discover lumps, wounds, etc.

Clean the dog's collar or replace it if it is grungy. Make sure the ID tag is still on.

ONCE A YEAR

Once a YEAR you need to:

• Make sure your dog is legal with the local community. If you live in a community with BSL - move. If you live in a community where you fear BSL, call your dog a mixbreed.
• Make sure all contact info is correct for you. Is your microchip information up to date? Are the phone numbers on your tags all correct?

Take your dog to the vet for a well-pet check. Depending on what area you live in, you may want to have certain tests run. Do check for worms and tapeworms. Heartworms if you are in a bad area for them. Have blood work run on older dogs. Time for vaccinations if you are so inclined or if local ordinance requires.


source: workingpitbull.com